Throngs of Newfoundlanders and Labradorians will once again venture out to sea today to reel in cod for the kitchen table, despite concerns that stock levels are too fragile to sustain the largely self-regulated, recreational fishery.

Since 2006, people in the province have been allowed to fish inshore for northern cod without a licence or tags for several weeks. For many, it's become a cherished summer ritual that provides a tangible link with a centuries-old way of life.

Last month, federal Fisheries Minister Loyola Hearn announced the resumption of the recreational fishery, along with a 30 per cent increase to the small-scale commercial fishery. He called it a cautious approach, saying Newfoundlanders have complied with the rules and that stock levels have grown slightly in the last two years.

But some scientists and environmental groups say there is little wisdom in reopening the cod fishery just as the species is showing signs of rebounding from its collapse more than 15 years ago.