(Oct 13, 2007)

By coincidence, several choices converge stylistically around the Rhone Valley, even though the wines are not from there.

Red wines grab the Vintages release spotlight today even though they're not the intended feature. There's a block of big-dog Scotch whiskies, including the Johnny Walker King George V edition celebrating that ruler's award of a royal patent, at $695 a bottle, or a selection of good Bordeaux at prices to match. If you want an affordable introduction, try the 2005 CHATEAU HAUT-COLOMBIER from the Cotes de Blaye ($17.95, code 43802).

But my attention is elsewhere. By coincidence, several choices converge stylistically around the Rhone Valley, even though the wines are not from there.

ARBOLEDA 2005 MERLOT ($15.95, code 45864). A terrific value red from Vina Errazuriz in Chile. The wine is from the Aconcagua appellation north of Santiago, and Arboleda is a notch up in the winery's portfolio. Ripe fruit, excellent weight and feel in the mouth, with flavours of black fruit, blueberries, black raspberries, and well-integrated tannic support.

CLINE CELLARS 2004 RED TRUCK ($15.95, code 693903).They're going for a Rhone impression in this California blend that employs Syrah, Petite Syrah, Grenache and a little Cab Franc. It works. This is an easy-drinking, nicely styled red with sweet forward fruit but it is not flabby or candied. Spiced cherry pie comes to mind.

SCHLOSS REINHARTSHAUSEN 2005 PINOT NOIR ($16.95, code 40543). Those who have read up on German wines may protest that Pinot Noir isn't grown in Rheingau. This estate does, out on an island in the river. It's a dry and elegant Pinot, a ruby colour with lovely raspberry and Morello cherry character, and a feathery tannic backbone.

GREG NORMAN ESTATES 2005 SHIRAZ/CABERNET ($24.95, code 586156). Norman has wine interests in both his native Australia and California. This is an example of the former. Nicely made, good body and extract, with black cherry and mulberry flavours and a touch of peppery spice, almost like pink peppercorns, in the finish.

FRANCIS COPPOLA 2006 SILVER LABEL PINOT NOIR ($29, code 47720). We think big when we talk California, but a wine like this out of Monterey County is quite different. Ocean winds moderate the climate, giving quite Burgundian results to Pinot Noir. Here's an elegant yet well-concentrated wine, with lots of black cherry, pine needle, dried cranberry and black plum character.

PENFOLDS BIN 138 GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVEDRE ($29.95, code 468637). Back to the Rhone in approach, but with an Australian interpretation. A very impressive wine, with a distinct earthy tone but tons of ripe fruit, yet it's all quite structured and restrained. Red berry flavours dominate, along with some cloves and cinnamon notes.

GALLO 2003 FREI RANCH ZINFANDEL ($34.95, 555599). Frei Ranch is one of Gallo's estates in Sonoma, where they're making some outstanding wines. It's ripe, as you'd expect, showing flavours of strawberries, blackberries, roasted tomato, plums and elderberries, with a toasty oak edge, and ripe and well-meshed tannin.

And let's not ignore white wines.

D'ARENBERG 2006 THE HERMIT VIOGNIER/ MARSANNE ($16.95, code 662775). Most people have heard of Viognier, many fewer of Marsanne. Those are traditional Rhone Valley varieties, here grown in Australia. D'Arenberg is noted for forward, high-impact wines and this is no different. Tropical fruit flavours (passion fruit, mangoes) is overlaid with a sweet vanilla and almond finish.

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 2005 LATE HARVEST RIESLING ($19.95 for 375 mL, code 432930). A good choice with a seasonal apple pie or pear tart. Niagara, of course. Many people actually prefer the subtlety of late harvest over the power of icewine, and here is a great example of how it's done right. Apricot and baked apple flavours abound, with a butter-tart note in the background, but the key is the bright, refreshing orange/grapefruit acidity.

Look for these wines at stores with Vintages selections: Dundurn Street, Fennell Square Plaza and Eastgate Mall in Hamilton, the two Fairview Street stores and Millcroft Centre in Burlington, University Plaza in Dundas, Meadowlands Power Centre in Ancaster and Waterdown Village Plaza in Waterdown.

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Port fans will want to circle Oct. 22 on their calendars. That's when a group of top Port and Douro Valley wine producers from Portugal come to Toronto and showcase some 400 wines. There will be table wines as well as the classic fortified Ports.

It's at The Design Exchange, 234 Bay St. (just up from Union Station), from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Admission is $20. To register as a visitor, go to ivdp.ca or call 647-259-3281.

dkislenko@thespec.com 905-526-3450