It seems this situation is happening more frequently and, as consumers, I guess we benefit.

The release of new products in Vintages stores today is a big one with loads of wines worth talking about. The core theme is Napa and Sonoma, the heart of upscale California winemaking. That's no surprise considering a month-long promotion of that state's wines begins Monday.

A word of warning: It's increasingly tough to find bargain wines from those regions based strictly on price, given limited production and high demand. Top value in many cases, yes, world-class quality, certainly, but that also means higher tags.

What I'll do today is talk about my choices among the California wines (including a few in our usual $20 and under target; if you think some of these are pricey, a couple are more than $150 and another half dozen more than $50). Then we'll do the rest of the release from around the world next Saturday.

Let's get going.

DRY CREEK VINEYARD FUME BLANC ($14.95, code 277715). A Sonoma wine that belies my "no bargains" statement earlier. It's smooth and fruity with great extract, bringing grapefruit, limes and green pears to mind.

2006 ROBERT MONDAVI 2006 NAPA FUME BLANC ($24.75, code 221887). Most consumers here think Woodbridge when they hear Mondavi. Those are reliable and well-priced wines, but now you're seeing some specific regional character. This Sauvignon Blanc has had a touch of wood treatment, so it has slightly smoky and buttery qualities behind lovely guava and passion fruit flavours.

STERLING 2006 CHARDONNAY ($22.95, code 330233). Sterling is one of the iconic Napa wineries, set alone atop a high hill. This is what most people expect Napa Chard to be: big, toasty, rich, loaded with golden pear, grilled peach, kumquat and vanilla flavours.

LA CREMA 2006 CHARDONNAY ($36.95, code 67231). Let's go over to cooler Sonoma, particularly the Russian River subdistrict. This is marvellous wine priced quite reasonably for the quality. The fruit is clear and focused, rich and ripe but not overblown, with a subtle, silky elegance in the background. It makes you understand why fine wines cost more.

IRONSTONE VINEYARDS 2006 OBSESSION SYMPHONY ($14.95, code 355784). OK, another bargain. Symphony is a unique California cross of White Grenache and Muscat of Alexandria, the latter dominating the character here. Obsession (a generic California appellation, by the way) is a terrific summer aperitif, styled off dry, with an explosive floral smell and fresh green grape and banana flavours.

RUTHERFORD RANCH 2005 CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($19.95, code 73817). A beautiful find from Napa and still less than $20. The Cabernet base is polished by bits of Merlot, Syrah and Cab Franc. A real lip-smacker, full bodied and smooth, with black currant, blackberry, dark chocolate and toasted oak flavours.

ROBERT MONDAVI 2005 NAPA CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($37.65, code 255513). This is Mondavi, who put California on the world wine map, and it is Napa Cabernet. Hence the price. It's big, chewy, complex, ripe and lingering. Look for black currants, black olives, dark plums, a touch of licorice, and be willing to wait another three to four years for it to come around.

WHITE OAK 2003 CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($32.95, code 684233). Very nice Napa wine, showing intensity and with a juicy feel in the mouth, tasting of red berries and with a whiff of roasted lamb about it that makes me think summer barbecue.

CLOS DU VAL 2005 ZINFANDEL ($21.95, code 590216). A really good, rich Napa Zin showing all the right varietal flavours: black cherries, dried blueberries, elderberries, a peppery spice. Get out the T-bones.

BERINGER 2006 PINOT NOIR ($27.95, code 718668). The fruit is very forward and open, which makes the wine appealing. Cherry, mulberry, black plum, dug earth and herbal notes add to the complexity.

Look for these wines at stores with Vintages selections: Dundurn Street, Fennell Square Plaza, Eastgate Mall and 2273 Rymal Rd. E., Hamilton; the two Fairview Street stores and Millcroft Centre in Burlington; University Plaza in Dundas, Meadowlands Power Centre in Ancaster and Waterdown Village Plaza, Waterdown.

Anyone who has been to Vine Dining can tell you what a great experience it is. A gathering of some 20 top local restaurants trying to outdo each other with gourmet nibbles prepared al fresco, and an equal number of wineries pouring from some delicious bottles.

Vine Dining, a Hamilton-area tradition, is a major fundraiser for Theatre Aquarius, to be held June 22, 1 to 5 p.m., at the picturesque Vineland Estates Winery.

Tickets are $125 each, all included, with a $75 tax deduction. Free transportation is available to and from Vine Dining (returning to Theatre Aquarius), so ask when you call for tickets.

Call 905-522-7529 or 1-800-465-7529, or theatreaquarius.org. You can also head to the box office at the Dofasco Centre for the Arts, 190 King William St.

dkislenko @thespec.com

905-526-3450