I call it the drink of the gods. Anyone I've ever known who has tasted a properly-made Pisco Sour cocktail has fallen in love with it.

I once was running -- literally -- through Santiago airport to catch a flight and had the server at the bar make up a couple in disposable cups, to be consumed en route to the gate. That's how good it is.

Pisco Sours, the national drink of Chile and Peru, are based on Pisco, a white brandy distilled from Muscat grapes. The two countries have a centuries-old rivalry about whose is best. On its own, Pisco is not much of a drink. Even the best ones are a bit rough and yeasty, vaguely reminiscent of Italian grappa.

But mix it carefully and the transformation is magical. Here's the recipe: three parts Pisco, one part fresh lime juice, one part basic sugar syrup (equal amounts of sugar and water simmered until the sugar dissolves and then chilled), some crushed ice and half an egg white. Shake until the ice is gone and serve in a stem glass.

Pisco Sour is potent yet subtle, sweet and sour and creamy and grapey at the same time.

Pisco, sadly, is not usually available in Ontario. But the current batch of new products on Vintages shelves has PANCHO FIERRO PISCO ($26.95, code 55038) from Peru. It's among the better brands and makes a memorable Pisco Sour. And summer is coming.

Not much is available in the Hamilton-Burlington area but the biggest stock is at the Ancaster Meadowlands store, and it may not arrive for a few days. But you can ask any LCBO to order it.

Some others well worth trying:

RINGBOLT 2006 CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($19.95, code 606624). A plump and rich yet nicely structured red from Australia's western Margaret River area. Flavours of red berries, wild strawberries, licorice and spice.

KAIKEN 2006 MALBEC ($14.95, code 58339). This Argentine project is by the respected Chilean producer Vina Montes. Look for characteristic black plum, blueberry pie and woodsmoke angles.

CHATEAU DES SALES 2004 POMEROL ($29.95, code 671735). Yeah, it is $30 but this is Pomerol, the right-bank Bordeaux district that is never cheap. It is very good indeed, a fine investment that is quite appealing now with its violet and cracked pepper qualities, but will certainly reward another decade of patience, when you'll think that price was dirt cheap.

FONTANAFREDDA 2006 BARBERA BRICCOTONDO ($15.95, code 72348). This is probably the steal of the group. Barbera is a relatively unknown grape in northern Italy that can be spectacular. This one is and at an amazing price. It's really forward and fruity, with loads of plum and elderberry flavours, a nice structure and dark chocolate finish. A great barbecue wine.

GREG NORMAN 2006 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR ($23.95, code 687988). This should have been with last week's California column, but I just tasted it the other day. Surprisingly big and chewy, with lots of good fruit extract and firm but ripe tannin; flavour is of spiced cherries.

JULIAN CHIVITE 2007 GRAN FEUDO ROSADO ($11.95, code 256149). A perennial summer favourite and eminently affordable rose for summer. It's dry but has nice roundness and full fruit, bringing to mind fresh strawberries and tart cherries.

FLAT ROCK CELLARS 2006 UNPLUGGED CHARDONNAY ($15.95, code 68015). Flat Rock is a winery on the Niagara Bench that is doing some great things. Their unoaked Chardonnay is fresh and fruit driven with proper crisp pear and quince flavours. A malolactic fermentation gives it a smooth, creamy edge.

HENRY OF PELHAM 2006 BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY ($19.95, code 268342). Quite the opposite of the previous wine: here you have size and power. The fruit leans to tropical, with a kiss of pineapple acidity, and then lots of big toast, vanilla and butterscotch flavour.

HENRY OF PELHAM 2006 GEWURZTRAMINER ($17.95, code 268359). A dry style yet juicy varietal, the wine has expected lychee nut, grapefruit and peppercorn notes.

The other Down Under is here in force. The roving New Zealand Wine Fair returns to southern Ontario with a tasting of dozens of fine wines.

New Zealand wine is much more than the explosive Sauvignon Blancs, of course. They make outstanding Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as well. And here's an opportunity to try them all, side by side.

The fair is May 15, 7 to 9:30 p.m., at The Design Exchange, 235 Bay St. S., Toronto (close to Union Station). Tickets are $55 but you must first obtain an invitation online. Go to nzwine-events.ca, click on Toronto and wine events, and use the password "nzwf8" to obtain the invitation. The site also has a complete list of wines at the event.

dkislenko@ thespec.com 905-526-3450