Sometimes, nature and geography conspire to create a situation in which a certain grape produces better wine in just one place on Earth.

Nebbiolo in Piedmont pops to mind. So does Malbec from Argentina.

Malbec is a widely-unknown and rather fussy grape that traditionally was a blending component in Bordeaux and is the backbone of Cahors wines in southern France.

But it is in Mendoza and its sub-appellations that Malbec reaches its greatest heights, figuratively and literally. Soils are right. Proximity to the equator means loads of sunshine and hot, dry summers. But the cooling altitude in these high valleys at the foot of the Andes -- in some cases 1,000 metres above sea level -- ensures a perfect balance of sugar and acid and long, even ripening.

The best news is that while some iconic Argentine Malbecs are now pushing past the $60 mark, the majority still deliver excellent value for little money.

I've chosen two from the block of Malbecs in today's Vintages release.

FINCA EL ORIGEN 2006 RESERVA MALBEC ($14.95, code 65664). This shows all the classical character of Malbec: luscious and juicy dark fruit including black cherries, damson plums and blueberries, backed by ripe and supple tannin, with notes of cedarwood and cinnamon in the finish.

FINCA FLICHMAN 2007 GESTOS MALBEC ($15.95, code 68999). An interesting concept and one that shows the effect of altitude. Half the grapes grew at 700 metres, which gives the wine character, density and depth, and the other half grew at 1,100 metres, where the coolness provides the wine's freshness and liveliness. Look for smoky notes such as tobacco leaf, pastrami and wood smoke, alongside blackberries, dark cocoa and a whiff of fresh leather.

Some other recommendations from this release are all well-priced for summer entertaining and include some grapes we don't see very often:

FLAT ROCK CELLARS 2006 THE RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY ($24.95, code 1552). A nice, fleshy but not overdone Niagara varietal with plump fruit, a soft buttery feel, and flavours of yellow plums, quince, golden pears, a touch of pineapple and vanilla.

PILLITTERI 2006 PINOT GRIGIO ($14.95, code 76018). Crisp and refreshing in style, this Niagara offering shows off green apples, grapefruit, green pear and limes, with a stony/mineral undertone.

DRY CREEK VINEYARDS 2007 CHENIN BLANC ($14.95, code 994442). California, yes, but from an obscure area near Sacramento. It is dry but still has a juicy, ripe feel on the tastebuds. Look for flavours of honeydew melons, green apples, orange peel, and a touch of passion fruit.

CASTELLO MONTAUTO 2007 VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO ($15.95, code 70847). There are several localized versions of Vernaccia grapes in Italy, but easily the best wines come from those grown around San Gimignano in Tuscany. Great summer sipping. It's packed with fresh lemon, cantaloupe and mild herbaceous flavours.

DE BORTOLI 2006 DB SELECTION PETITE SIRAH ($14.95, code 694802). Not to be confused with true Syrah, Petite Sirah is a workhorse grape variety in some regions of the world and nobody really knows what its lineage is. Just enjoy. This Australian is fruit-driven and bold, bringing to mind sweet and tart cherries, raspberries, blueberries, wrapped in vanilla brioche.

CASA SILVA 2005 RESERVA SYRAH ($14.95, code 14456). Try the previous wine and this true Syrah from Chile together and compare. There's a rich, supple feel here, flavours of mixed berry pie, a whiff of black olives, cloves, pepper and dry licorice.

OYSTER BAY 2007 MERLOT ($18.95, code 692343). We know Oyster Bay here more for its whites, but it makes some pretty good reds as well. The fruit is plump, the tannin well-meshed, the flavours go to black raspberry, cherry, mulberry with spice notes in the finish.

CABRIZ 2004 RESERVA ($18.95, code 21410). A blend from Portugal's Dao region is based on the indigenous grapes Touriga Nacional and Tinto Roriz. It's quite aromatic and fruity, showing elderberries, saskatoons and dark plums.

Look for these wines at stores with Vintages selections: Dundurn Street, Fennell Square Plaza, Eastgate Mall and 2273 Rymal Rd. E. in Hamilton, the two Fairview Street stores and Millcroft Centre in Burlington, University Plaza in Dundas, Meadowlands Power Centre in Ancaster and Waterdown Village Plaza in Waterdown.

dkislenko@thespec.com 905-526-3450