An embarrassment of riches -- that's today's selection of new wines and spirits in LCBO stores that carry Vintages products. So many riches, in fact, that I'll write two columns.

A special feature in this release is upscale Chilean wines. Readers know that I think Chile offers many excellent value wines, so that's the focus next week. Today we'll explore the rest of the world, including a number of fine Ontario wines.

Let's start on our doorstep.

COYOTE'S RUN 2006 RESERVE CHARDONNAY ($20.95, code 49775). This St. David's estate winery consistently impresses me in competitions and blind tastings. This is good new world Chardonnay -- toasty and spicy in the smell, wonderful fruit extract and depth of flavour evoking butterscotch and dry honey, Delicious apples and golden pears, with a clean citrus/grapefruit acidity and a touch of fresh tarragon/chervil.

HILLEBRAND 2006 COLLECTORS' CHOICE CHARDONNAY ($16.15, code 291682). CC is one of Hillebrand's mid-range brands, but always delivers value. Here is a more fruit-driven Chardonnay, showing zippy tropical fruit such as pineapple, passion fruit and kiwi, balanced by a soft, buttery layer of oak aging.

FIELDING ESTATE 2007 GEWURZTRAMINER ($16, code 78501). A well- made Gewurz in what I'd call the Germanic style, with a touch of natural residual sweetness that makes the wine quite pretty. You get that sweet peach and lychee nut fruit along with subtle, spicy, peppery notes and an edge of orange peel and lime acidity.

FEATHERSTONE 2007 GEWURZTRAMINER ($18.95, code 64592). You'd think that two similarly styled Niagara Gewurz would be close in taste, but no. This one emphasizes floral qualities and honey, while the off-dry style brings to mind apple sauce, rose petals, tangerines and nutmeg.

VINELAND ESTATES 2006 SAUVIGNON BLANC ($16.95, code 551168). If I had tasted this blind, I'd have guessed New Zealand, not Ontario. The wine is crisp and dry but with nice ripe fruit flavours of lemon, gooseberry, green pear, minerals and mown grass, with a really nice lingering, mouth-tingling tartness.

TAWSE 2007 SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING ($18.20, code 89029). Tawse is a high-end artisanal winery in Beamsville, and this is their entry-level Riesling. It's in that slightly off-dry, fruity yet nicely balanced style that is so appealing in Niagara Riesling. Yes, it has nice crisp acidity and freshness, but loads of fruit such as guava, mango, star fruit, lime and apricot.

DOMAINE LAMARGUE 2007 VIOGNIER ($17.95, code 525428). Viognier is a charming grape at its best, particularly noted in the Rhone valley, but doing well elsewhere. Here is an offering out of the pays d'Oc in southern France, and a good one at that. It is dry but with good fruit, and has all the expected lushness and roundness of the grape, with notes of wisteria, jasmine and dried apricot.

SCHLOSS SCHONBORN 1994 RIESLING ($14.95, code 107557). OK, debate time, if you've never been exposed to mature wines. Some may not like them, but I love older Rieslings, especially Rheingau Rieslings, and Schonborn, one of my favourite estates. I can't believe this price. Outstanding. Despite the age and the lovely beeswax and lanolin feel (which lovers of mature German Riesling will love), the fruit is still vibrant with peach and kumquat flavours and a surprising freshness.

BERINGER 2003 CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($28.95, code 91058). This one is at the upper end of our normal price scale, but this is a well-established and well-respected Napa Valley producer (and trust me, $30 for a bottle of Cab is giving it away in California). Lots of classical character, from black currant and lavender to coffee bean with a spicy finish.

ALAMOS 2007 CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($13.95, code 467944). The Alamos line out of Argentina (Mendoza) is a top-value brand from Catena Zapata. This great barbecue wine is packed with blackberry, mulberry, elderberry flavours with a vanilla/oak edge and cocoa/mocha finish.

FINCA FLICHMAN 2006 EXPRESIONES RESERVE MALBEC/CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($15.95, code 507707). Malbec, as you may know already, achieves its greatest heights in Argentina. In this wine, it takes up 60 per cent of the blend with the rest being Cabernet Sauvignon. Expression is the word that instantly jumps to mind -- the wine is full bodied with a cedar-edged tannic spine.

Look for these wines at stores with Vintages selections: Dundurn Street, Fennell Square Plaza, Eastgate Mall and 2273 Rymal Rd. E., Hamilton, the two Fairview Street stores and Millcroft Centre in Burlington, University Plaza in Dundas, Meadowlands Power Centre in Ancaster and Waterdown Village Plaza in Waterdown.

dkislenko@ thespec.com

905-526-3450