It's fitting that, as the harvest of a touchy and wet season is under way in Ontario vineyards, we celebrate the wines from our back yard with a special release onto Vintages shelves.

You can taste some with age, some from the strong and aromatic 2006 vintage, and the first glimpse of the 2007s, which are already being hailed as possibly the greatest year in this province.

Let's start with some delicious white wines:

FEATHERSTONE 2007 BLACK SHEEP RIESLING ($17.15, code 80234). I love this story -- the winery uses a flock of sheep to patrol the vineyard and eat away excess leaves to expose grapes to more sunlight and warmth. The wine is terrific, made in an off-dry style with natural residual sweetness. This '07 shows fabulous ripe peach, apricot and pear qualities, with a bracing and balancing fresh acidity. A must buy.

THIRTY BENCH 2007 RIESLING ($18.20, code 24133). The winery has long been known for its Rieslings, so 2007 stands out. This is a dry styling with a tart/crisp mineral acidity playing against mouth-tingling flavours of pineapple, passion fruit and tangerine.

MIKE WEIR 2007 ESTATE PINOT GRIGIO ($15.15, code 43364). No, the golfer doesn't make the wine, but he's involved in the ownership. Dry, crisp yet feels big in the mouth, with almond, golden pear and apricot flavours and a tangy mineral finish.

INNISKILLIN 2006 MONTAGUE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY ($17.95, code 586347). If you like big Chardonnay, this is for you. There are fresh pear and lemon-drop flavours but then the wood kicks in with butterscotch, buttered toast, vanilla, treacle and dry oak.

JACKSON-TRIGGS 2006 DELAINE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY ($19.95, code 623454). A more fruit-driven single vineyard Chardonnay with pear, cantaloupe and apple fruit qualities, and a subtle toastiness offset by orange-juice acidity.

COLIO ESTATE 2005 CEV CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($19.95, code 619510). I can't believe a wine of this quality is less than $20. Give it a couple of hours to breathe now or do yourself a favour and stash it away until 2010 or so. The big hit is chocolate-covered cherries, the fruit is intense and you also get strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and an ultrasmooth, polished feel in the mouth.

JACKSON-TRIGGS 2006 PROPRIETORS' RESERVE SHIRAZ ($16.95, code 89359). Excellent value in a grape variety that is beginning to establish itself in Ontario. More of a classic French approach, with nice structure and controlled fruit, showing raspberry and black cherry flavours and an edge of mint and white pepper.

PENINSULA RIDGE 2002 CABERNET FRANC ($25.15, code 86876). A great vintage with some age spells good value. It's coming to maturity but can go another few years. Blackberries and wild blueberries dominate, with a spicy note and flash of cinnamon and cloves, and a redwood/cedar barrel note.

FLAT ROCK CELLARS 2006 GRAVITY PINOT NOIR ($29.95, code 1560). The winery uses gravity, not pumps, for its flagship wine to preserve delicacy and fruit. Good Pinot that brings Oregon to mind -- nice ripe cherry flavours with an earthy/floral angle and polished wood influence.

HENRY OF PELHAM 2007 GAMAY ($14.95, code 291112). Take this for what it is and enjoy it young -- Gamay doesn't really age well. Bright and fun cherry fruit pops out with muted tannin and a vague earthy edge that evokes memories of a cru Beaujolais.

CHATEAU DES CHARMES 2004 CABERNET/ MERLOT ($19.95, code 222372). Plums, red currants and mulberries show off in this blend, along with a touch of smoke and well-meshed structural tannin.

Of course, there are wines from elsewhere:

ZEYSSOLFF 2005 PINOT GRIS RESERVE PARTICULIERE ($18.95, code 80457). Classic Alsace Pinot Gris, with great weight and extract, an oily feel, with flavours of sweet pear and almond. BLACKSTONE 2005 MERLOT ($19.95, code 606327). A nice, meaty California varietal with excellent value for the money. Loads of ripe plum, black currant and dried blueberry flavours, with a dark chocolate/chili finish and well-meshed tannin.

SANTA CAROLINA 2006 BARRICA SELECTION MERLOT ($14.95, code 27276). One of the upscale lines from the well-known Chilean producer, this is select fruit given special wood treatment for complexity. I get black fruit and black olives in the flavour, a ripe but firm tannic backbone suggesting a couple years patience in the cellar, and a polished licorice finish.

TAMAYA 2005 RESERVE MERLOT/CABERNET SAUVIGNON/SYRAH ($12.95, code 62497). You'll hear a lot from this new Chilean winery in the booming Limari Valley. The climate is cool so you get restrained, intense flavours of black currants, elderberries, sun-dried tomatoes, dried cherries, cracked pepper and sweet vanilla.

CHATEAU LAROCHE JOUBERT 2005 ($18.95, code 87064). A little gem from Bordeaux, it's mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Perky yet soft, with meshed tannin and bright red berry and mushroom flavours.

dkislenko@thespec.com 905-526-3450