(Oct 10, 2008)

Olive oil, salt, pepper and pasta.

Despite the simplicity of the combination, it's an Italian classic that can pack killer flavour with little effort. The key is to use only the very best, very freshest ingredients.

And, of course, there are all sorts of avenues for improvisation.

Using different varieties of pasta is a given. But the oil also could be swapped out. Walnut oil would have a pleasantly rich, nutty flavour. Peanut oil (and maybe a hit of hot sauce) would offer an Asian accent.

Gourmet salts, including those blended with herbs, would be nice. A coarse grain or flaked salt added at the table would offer a satisfying crunch. Likewise, single varietal peppercorns would be a fun way to experiment with flavours.

In this riff on that classic, the salt is provided by the cheese. The olive oil gives way to browned butter, which is rich and smooth. And the peppery bite comes from the unorthodox, but wonderfully savory, combination of nutmeg and turmeric.

Brown Butter Pasta

Makes 4 servings

* 1/4 cup (60 mL) salted butter

* 1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) nutmeg

* 1/8 tsp (0.5 mL) turmeric

* 3 oz (90 g) aged Gouda cheese, cut

into small chunks

* 1/2 cup (125 mL) coarse unseasoned bread crumbs (such as panko)

* 1/4 cup (60 mL) pine nuts

* 12 oz (340 g) fresh fettuccine

Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil.

While water heats, in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine butter, nutmeg and turmeric. Heat, stirring frequently, until butter has melted and browned slightly, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, use a food processor to finely grate cheese. Add bread crumbs and pine nuts, then pulse several times or until mixture resembles coarse sand. Set aside.

Once the water has boiled, add pasta and cook according to package directions. Drain and return to pot.

Pour butter mixture over pasta and toss to coat. Transfer pasta, along with any butter in the pan, to a large serving bowl. Sprinkle bread crumb mixture over pasta.

Approximate nutrition per serving: 533 calories, 26 g fat, 19 g protein, 57 g carbohydrates, 3 g fibre