Thanksgiving dinner would not be complete without a sumptuous ending that combines the fruits of the harvest and Canada's tradition of baking, says one of this country's prolific cookbook authors.

"A pie is a wonderful kind of dessert for Thanksgiving," says Elizabeth Baird, author of The Complete Canadian Living Baking Book (Transcontinental Books, $34.95), which features more than 300 recipes for sweets and savouries and plenty of step-by-step photos.

Pie fillings can be tailored to what's available, and at Thanksgiving apple and pumpkin are popular.

"I think we're pretty pumpkin and apple oriented. And for good reason. Apples are at absolutely their finest," says Baird.

"I'm going to encourage people to eat apples because they are in season and some kind of pumpkin dessert if they are a traditionalist because pumpkin pie or pumpkin tarts are definitely what a lot of people think of for Thanksgiving," says Baird, who is also executive food editor of Canadian Living magazine.

At her family's celebration, pumpkin will likely be featured. "It would not be Thanksgiving without pumpkin, so I'll make pumpkin tarts."

An alternative to pie is apple dumplings, basically pastry wrapped around peeled apples with a bit of sauce of rum and brown sugar. As the pastry and the apples cook, the sauce thickens and glazes the apples.

Another great family dessert is an orange sour cream Bundt cake, also featured in the cookbook.

Baking doesn't have to be reserved for dessert. Brunch guests are sure to enjoy a savoury cheddar and onion galette, roasted heirloom tomato tart or quiche.

A bumper cranberry crop means these bright jewels will likely be on the menu on some Thanksgiving tables in northern Canada.

When choosing what to prepare for the Thanksgiving finale, Baird advises considering how much time you'll have. Besides being comfort food, a crisp, crumble or cobbler is a godsend when you're pressed for time.

"It may sound simple, but something like a crisp is the ultimate fall dessert.

"Everybody thinks it's just a crisp or just a crumble or just a cobbler, but in fact they are warm and using seasonal fruits. They're magic."

They can be accompanied by yogurt, ice cream, whipped cream, sour cream or pouring cream. "There are all kinds of things that can go on it or just on its own. I happen to like that combination of fruit and cream a lot," says Baird.

When you make something simple but want it to look as if you spent hours on it, elevate a simple dessert to divine with a fancy topping. Put a little bit of a crumble or brown sugar on a muffin to dress it up. Or drizzle a simple glaze -- icing sugar combined with a bit of liquid, which could be water or milk or orange juice or lemon juice -- over a loaf or scones or even a plain cake "and you've got something that looks even more special," says Baird.

For those who don't bake goodies because they fear thickening waistlines, Baird has this to say: "Baking does not require that you eat it all yourself -- as tempting as it might be."

She advises using the right ingredients to get the best results "and enjoy a small portion of it and use it as a treat rather than an everyday indulgence. We don't have to eat three pieces of pie or half a layer cake or six muffins or a dozen cookies. We can eat one, enjoy it and share."

If you fear you can't resist, send pieces of pie or cake home with guests.