The Vicar's Vice, beginning with the motto "a good habit to get into," is terminally cute in working church themes into its menu. The Lord is my Shepherd's Pie tops the list of tortured turns of phrase.

Mind you, it must be tempting when your restaurant is in a 150-year-old landmark such as the former Elfrida Methodist Church.

The original windows are gone but the beautiful woodwork remains. A loft area has seating, and live bands play on weekends.

It is easy on the eyes, but the stomach? Generally, an inverse relationship exists between creative labeling on menus and quality of fare, so we didn't hold out high hopes upon considering the Holy Cow Steak.

Turns out, though, that the food was pretty good and reasonably priced once we got past the puns.

The Trinity, for instance, promised liver, bacon and onions with mashed potatoes, gravy and vegetables. This $10.99 item from the traditional section of the menu underscored that the kitchen takes some care.

The cook came to my table and explained than the mashed potato was not up to standard, and offered fries or sweet potato fries as an alternative.

Liver is not everybody's favourite and a 30 C day is unlikely timing for a farmer's meal, but it seemed representative of the menu. The vegetable component impressed most -- a very fresh and crisp collection of broccoli, carrot, red pepper and cauliflower. Pub-style places usually steam veggies to mush, so this was welcome.

The liver itself, two hand-sized cuts, was also quite good. It was tender under a pile of fried onions and a gravy that was OK, but tasted like a packaged mix.

On the other hand, the sweet potato fries had the look and taste of an in-house product.

Service was breezily engaging and quick, ditto for a first visit to the bar for half-priced wings ($3.99) and a libation. The six wings and legs were big and tender, and the maple-mustard treatment hot and sweet, if a bit too thick.

One odd consequence of locating in an old church is that voices bounce around the room, making a blasphemy from one clear to all in attendance.

And, yes, there is a deck area for Holy Smokes.

jkernaghan@thespec.com

905-526-3422

The Vicar's Vice

2251 Rymal Rd E.

Stoney Creek

905-578-4500

The look: Bright and open

The feel: Relaxed

What you'll pay: Dark ale and onion soup is $5.25 and soup of the day is $3.25 and $4.99. Breaded and fried calamari and smoked salmon with lemon caper aioli are $9.99 and crab cakes are $10.99. Salads range from house greens at $4.25 to smoked salmon salad for $8.99. Sandwiches at $9.99 include the half-pound BLT, the maple-mustard chicken and the pulled pork. Pastas range from Franciscan penne with tomato sauce for $12.99 to linguine carbonara for $14.99. Mains include pork loin stuffed with spinach, apple and onion; and basilica chicken with roasted garlic and provolone cheese, both $16.99. Traditional pub fare includes shepherd's pie and lamb stew for $10.99.

Hours: Monday to Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Thursday and Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Not wheelchair accessible.