After my second visit, I told the chick we had to stop meeting this way.

My server missed the comment, and it didn't have much impact on the stuffed-toy chicken cosying up to my right hip, either.

This is likely normal at Leghorn's Restaurant, which is about chickens from menu to fowl tributes on the walls.

My 15-centimetre seatmate, tucked into a fold of a banquette, was another cute part of a theme that includes a special place for barnyard cartoon star Foghorn Leghorn.

The rooster is the centrepiece of a massive Christmas wreath festooned with toy chickens.

But the theme gets points for novelty only. What's more important is how the kitchen handles the real thing.

That played out with varying success on two visits.

The half-chicken dinner ($16.95) on the first go-round was a bit dry and tough; the Cajun sandwich ($8.95) on the second was tasty and tender, a turnabout from what you'd expect by portion and price.

Both were served in the pie-shaped space that was formerly home to L'Escargot and Las Aguas, two estimable eateries.

Leghorn's is a down-home kind of joint with reasonable prices and personable service.

There is no pretension of fine cuisine, and beer is served in jars with handles and a chicken outlined in relief on the glass.

That half-chicken was a plain, big meal preceded by a small in-house garlic loaf. The bread was warm and fragrant but awkward to eat, given that it sat in a pool of hot garlic butter.

A salad came with the dinner, and the garden variety was mostly iceberg lettuce and carrot shards with bits of red onion and tomato.

The main platter featured a mound of home fries that were a bit on the greasy side and a fancy-cut tomato as an artsy garnish.

The chicken in the Cajun sandwich on my second visit was a big step up.

The large portion of lightly breaded breast was excellent, with a liberal slathering of mozzarella cheese inside fresh ciabatta bread.

Slices of tomato and carrot sticks filled out the plate.

I chose soup as an option, and the corn and potato chowder was a good mix in a medium bowl.

The chicken broth held generous amounts of sweet, crunchy corn and potato chunks.

So, a split-decision: Leghorn's qualifies as a decent place for a modest family meal or relaxed get-together.

jkernaghan@thespec.com

905-526-3422

Leghorn's Restaurant 1375 King St. E. 905-549-6000

The look: Small and cute

The feel: Very relaxed

What you'll pay: Starters include garlic bread for $4.25, bruschetta for $8.95, escargot or baked shrimp for $8.95, and salads at $7.95 for garden, Greek or caesar. Wings run from $9.50 for 10 to $60 for a bucket of 100. Sandwiches are $8.95 and include grilled lemon-pepper chicken, prime rib on a bun and chicken-bacon melt. Pastas include a choice of penne, fettuccine, angel hair and rigatoni, from $8.95 to $15.95. Mains include chicken parmesan for $14.95, rib and chicken combo for $16.95, ribs for $18.95 and prime rib for $21.95.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days a week. Wheelchair accessible